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  #901  
Old 03-13-2018, 12:40 PM
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Excellent progress!!

At least you arent still waiting for it to stop snowing and infinity pounds of salt to be washed from the roads. ha.

For a bleeder I made one out of a $5 garden sprayer and a couple parts from Lowes. I just use it to pressurize the master... makes short work of bleeding brakes or clutch lines.

Found the link that I mostly followed. I ended up buying a cheap gauge i threaded right into the tank. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...eder/index.htm

My version


Dan

Last edited by juicedz4; 03-13-2018 at 12:43 PM.
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  #902  
Old 03-13-2018, 02:56 PM
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That is cool. Very similar to how people make oil primers. It would be difficult to adapt to my rectangular master cylinder and I would probably end up exploding brake fluid everywhere with my luck. But I will bookmark that for down the road. Thanks!
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  #903  
Old 03-13-2018, 03:13 PM
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A piece of 1/8 steel with a hole drilled in it for the fitting, a sheet of rubber for a seal, and a couple quick clamps works. Ive done similar when I didnt have the right spare fitting for a master cyl. In fact, thats how I did my Silverado.

Dan
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  #904  
Old 03-14-2018, 11:04 AM
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Brilliant. I'd probably still spray myself with brake fluid but I like it! Thanks for the tip.
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  #905  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:55 PM
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Full disclosure: I have a bit of interference with the back of the front fender tub when the tire is turned sharply out. I need to realign the car (dropping the back increased caster roughly 2deg) and reassess the clearance. The track width to the outside of the tire section is about 0.4" less than the previous combo, but the tire diameter is about 0.2" larger and the actual tread width is a bit wider. Having that sharper edge on the low profile tires seems to be causing interference, but it's odd because the clearance looks better at the top of the tire than the old setup. Worst case I may need to rework my tubs some or wait until I upgrade the front discs ('vette discs decrease track width compared to my OEM discs) to see where it sits.

The area that's rubbing is at the back of the wheel tub. FYI the inner wheeltub is currently not attached at the perimeter of the fender. I have all the perimeter bolts out so I can replace them with button heads.



The tire is making a glancing contact. It was enough to rub the paint off doing just a few circles in the cul-de-sac.



The rubbing occurs with about 1/2" gap at the steering stop. I can turn my steering wheel one revolution from center before it makes contact.



Here is what the lip clearance looks like. It's very similar to what it looked like with the old tires. They did not rub under hard cornering (autox) so I'm hopeful I wont have problems in this area. I could add some static camber if this is a problem. Right now I am running a more wear-friendly -1deg, but another degree or more would be better for autox.



Before lowering the rear, the caster was +5deg LF +5.5deg RF. I think the rear dropped by about 3" total (due to springs and tire). Based on a 111" wheelbase, that increased the caster by atan(3/111) = 1.54deg so theoretically my caster is now +6.5deg LF +7deg RF. The stock spindle is roughly 10" bj-to-bj, so to remove that 1.54deg would shift the upper balljoint by 10tan(1.54)= 0.27in. That would move the wheel forward maybe half that so 0.135in. That should help. It probably will not eliminate the issue, but I think a realignment is a good starting point.

According to Kore3, when I swap to 'vette brakes, the wheel will move inboard by 0.24in on each side compared to the OEM disc setup. That should help too and may even eliminate the problem.

For reference, the current ride height puts the rear lip 22-3/4" from the ground and the front lip 23-5/8"



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  #906  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:56 PM
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I finally took the first real drive since last June. Wow I can't believe how fast time flies with a family and young kids!

Here's a summary of what was and what is:

Front suspension (no changes)
600lb/in AFCO springs and adjusters, same rate and set to the same length as Hotchkis 2" lowering springs. Hotchkis Bilstein shocks. Helwig hollow 1-1/8" sway bar. Guldstrand mod. Stock spindles and lowers. Global West uppers.

Rear suspension
WAS stock multi leaf springs ~125lb/in and KYB shocks. NOW Hotchkis 1.5" 150-180lb/in drop springs, same KYB shocks (for now), and Helwig 3/4" tubular sway bar. Stock power steering box (boo)

Brakes
Front stock 11" discs (no change for now), Rear was stock drums now LS1 rear (~12" diameter rotors), master 1-1/16" stock with 11" single diaphragm booster. Removed stock fixed proportioning valve and front hold off valve and added Wilwood adjustable prop valve.

Wheels/Tires
WAS 205/60R15 front on 15x7 w/ 3-3/8" BS (neg 5/8" offset) and 275/60R15 rear on 15x8.5 w/ 5" BS (pos 1/4" offset). NOW 235/40R18 front on 18x8 w/ 4.5" BS (0 offset) and 255/40R18 rear on 18x9 w/ 5"BS (0 offset, note axle narrowing effectively adds 1" pos offset)

Rear End
12 bolt with 3.73 posi WAS stock c-clip axles 60-1/4" wms-to-wms NOW narrowed to 58-1/4" wms-to-wms, Strange axles, Strange Ford bearing ends and Strange axles with tapered bearings / no c-clips.

Future plans
- Rear needs more damping / better shocks
- Front brakes need to be upsized, probably going to Z51 'vette brakes. Obviously there is a big mismatch having 11" rotors up front with bigger 12" rotors out back
- Master and/or booster may need replacement to get desired pedal feel (we'll see)
- Steering box needs to be quicker and heavier (feel)
- Subframe needs connecting

For my first real drive, I took the car around the neighborhood hills and focused on bedding the brake pads and gaining confidence in the brakes. Shakedown runs are always nerve racking because so many things can go wrong. You start out focusing on a few things and can quickly be overcome by some unexpected issue. Fortunately this drive was drama-free.

Before driving, I set the proportioning valve to mid travel (count turns from full open to close, then back half way) and found that at least on a damp surface the fronts lock before the rear. Stopping distances felt a little long with this setting and I probably need to adjust the bias to get more out of the rear. I did a series of very slow speed stops followed by some faster intermittent stops to warm up the brakes a tad to help bed the pads. I kept speeds below 40mph and listened for any weird noises coming out of the rear (since I did adjust the backlash and change a bunch in the rearend) - it seems to run quiet so far. I kept steering below 1 steering wheel turn either direction so I wouldn't rub the rear inner wheeltub, which was fine until I needed to make a U-turn lol. The car is going to be tough to park until get the tire clearance worked out up front.

I think the biggest grin of the drive came when I did a NASCAR-style tire warm-up routine, darting left and right rapidly down the street as if I was going through a tight slalom. The usual body roll was gone and the tires stuck firm. I got a little sense of the lowness and go-kart feeling of having a more tightly sprung car on (finally) decent tires. I can not wait to get this thing out on a course and see what it can do!





There are quite a number of things that need buttoning up, but I'm going to try making my first cruise of the season this weekend (weather permitting).
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Last edited by TheBandit; 03-16-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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  #907  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:03 PM
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Looks like a mallet could solve your tire rubbing issue.
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  #908  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicedz4 View Post
Looks like a mallet could solve your tire rubbing issue.
Yes I have been eyeballing the BFH. I may go there if alignment doesn't resolve the issue. It's very close to clearing.
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  #909  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:11 PM
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I would unless you really want to change the alignment anyway.
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  #910  
Old 03-19-2018, 05:00 PM
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I was thinking about taking my car to a show this weekend and naturally that snowballed into starting a full detail / paint restoration. Why drive the car when I can continue to work on it?

I have been researching this topic for a while. For anyone interested in bringing life back to old single stage paint, I suggest checking out this article on autogeek.

The steps I plan to follow are as follows:
(1) Strip wash the car to remove any residual wax/polish from previous work
(2) Clay bar to remove surface bonded contaminants / industrial fallout
(3) Condition the paint with Maguiars no 7 to restore oils
(4) Compound to remove oxidation and other deep defects
(5) Polish to remove surface defects swirls and scratches
(6) Wax to protect the finish

Paint Restoration: Before photos

Here is what I'm starting with. I don't know if this paint is original, but I certainly haven't painted it since I bought the car twenty years ago. It's a single stage "black cherry" factory color with lots of chips and a few dents. In this photo there is a layer of dust over the car from being stored for a while, but it also has significant oxidation and water deposits.







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  #911  
Old 03-19-2018, 05:01 PM
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Step 1: Strip Wash

To get the car back to a "clean" slate, the first step was a "strip wash". Most maintenance car wash soaps are neutral, meaning they are designed NOT to remove waxes. If you want to polish your paint, you first need to remove any residual waxes from the car. There are a number of ways to do this. Dawn concentrated cleaner is a low buck approach. I decided to use Maguiars Wash Plus buckless soap. I applied it directly to a microfiber wash mitt and worked over the car one panel at a time. Between panels, I rinsed off the wash mitt and reapplied the soap so any dirt/debri removed from the car wouldn't get dragged all over it. This soap contains a finish polish which doesn't do a lot for paint in this condition, but it can't hurt. Usually when you wash a car you should be using a linear/back-and-forth motion to avoid making intersecting circular scratches, but since this has a polish in it I used circular motions for most of the wash. Once washed, I dried the car with microfiber towels. Then I went under the hood and rinsed down the inner fenders, suspension, and engine, followed by drying the body around it again and then drying under the hood.

Here is a hyperlapse of washing the car



Here is what the paint looked like immediately after washing.



Here are some closer shots of the passenger quarter panel. This area has a lot of water deposits from vinyl top / gutter runoff so I will use it as a bell weather for progress.





Products used:
- Maguiars Wash Plus bucketless soap
- Amazon Basics microfiber wash mitt
- Generic microfiber towels (drying)
Time: Approx 1.5hr
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  #912  
Old 03-19-2018, 05:02 PM
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Step 2: Clay Bar

The next step is to clay the surface. The purpose of clay is to remove "surface bonded contaminants" aka "industrial fallout". These are harder to see contaminants on the surface of the paint, but they are easy to feel and typically wont come off with just a wash. If you run your fingers across the surface of the paint you will feel these contaminants as a sort of an inconsistent, rough texture. It's easier to feel if you put your hands in a plastic bag or wear rubber/nitrile/latex gloves. The clay acts as an abrasive that picks up these contaminants. It is similar in texture to play dough. To use the clay, you spray a lubricant on the surface and simply rub it back and forth. Working in a small area (roughly 2ft x 2ft), you spray the lube, work the clay, then follow with a microfiber towel. Kneed the contaminants back into the clay and continue to the next section. You can easily feel the smooth clean paint surface left after the clay.



The top surfaces of the car will have the most surface contaminants, especially the hood and trunk. I also had a particularly nasty section behind the tire on the quarter panel. This is probably some bits of embedded rubber and asphalt left on the paint from making clouds.



Here are some closeups of various areas after clay bar. You can see it didn't remove a lot of visually-obvious contaminants, but the car FELT a lot cleaner when I was done.









I also took the clay bar to the windows. It made a big difference there too. Here is what the car looked like after the strip wash and clay. The paint still looks weathered but it's CLEAN.



Products used:
- Mothers clay kit (2x100g clay and instant detailer spray lube)
Time: Approx 2hrs
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  #913  
Old 03-19-2018, 05:03 PM
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Step 3: Condition

This is where the paint "restoration" part comes in. Single stage paints aren't sealed up by clear coat, so over time they lose their composition as base oils are degraded and washed off over decades. At least that's my understanding of the theory I'll happily regurgitate from this great in-depth article. To restore those important oils to the paint, I slathered the entire car in a very wet coat of Maguiars number 7 show car glaze.







I was really tired after all the hard work washing, claying, and applying no 7 to the car, so the next step was welcome: I LEFT THE CAR OVERNIGHT. That's right. I just left that stuff on my car for a period of 24+ hours so it could impregnate the paint with all the juicy oils to make paint happy. Then, after 24 hours, I started to take it off. I used a number of microfiber towels (about 1 per panel) and rubbed vigorously in circular motions.



Rubbing off the no 7 was like discovering a new car. Here are a couple videos looking over the surface afterwards. You can see the no 7 restored depth, richness, and gloss back to the paint. There are still a lot of defects in the paint, but the the car has a reflection now. I'd say it's analogous to a fogged up or dirty mirror now - it still needs compounding and polishing, but this turned the clock back a few decades.





Here are a few close photos to show what it looks like after conditioning:



The trunk panel has serious left-to-right scratches all over it. I am not sure why.



I'm starting to see myself in the quarter panel







Stepping back, the car is looking fresh. Note: driver's side hasn't been rubbed out yet in this photo.



Due to family needs, I had to leave the car an extra night before rubbing off the driver's side. This made the glaze harder to remove and I noticed swirl left on the paint afterwards in a few places, so I would definitely suggest if you follow this process to try to get all the glaze off in one go.







Suffice to say I'm pretty stoked on seeing a reflection in this old paint!



Here are all the microfiber towels I went through removing the glaze. I folded the towels into sixths and flipped or refolded after I felt the towel gumming up.



That's where I'm at for now. So far I have only been working by hand, but for the next step (compound cutting) I will be using a dual action (DA) polisher. Stay tuned.

Products Used
- Maguiars No 7 Show Car Glaze
- Generic microfiber towels (application and removal)'
Time: approx 5 hours
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Last edited by TheBandit; 03-20-2018 at 11:28 AM.
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  #914  
Old 03-19-2018, 09:08 PM
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Great post and timely. My dad has worked over the Burban many times but still can't get a very miniscule shine on the paint.
The no7 is a step I bet he doesn't know about for sure.
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  #915  
Old 03-20-2018, 06:44 AM
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Interesting stuff. I used to wax my stuff pretty regularly, but that's another thing life has gotten in the way of. I did the front clip on my truck with Meguiar's #1 last fall and it made a world of difference in how clean the truck felt.

This reminds me of stuff I got roped into as a kid hanging around my dad's shop. "Hey, you want to make a few bucks?" And then feeling like my arms were going to fall off. Worst was hand-polishing Center Line Convo-Pro's...I can still feel that in my fingertips if I think about it.

Be careful with that DA...corners are vulnerable to burning through...
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  #916  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:41 AM
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CarterKraft - I hope it's the silver bullet for him. You might want to read this article. It has a lot of interesting history and info on how this stuff works from an industry insider. https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html

Graham - This will be my first time with a DA so tips are appreciated! There are some curves and tight areas I'm really not sure about doing with the DA. I will probably end up doing a lot of hand work in those areas. One thing about it, I'm becoming intimately familiar with every surface of my car! I feel you on the Convo Pros. I made a failed attempt at polishing mine once and there was just no getting that old oxidation out of the tight crevices between the convolutions or around the rivets. If the previous owner or I had just maintained them better it probably wouldn't have been so difficult.

I added a few more photos in the previous post to show how the car looks after the conditioning step. I could probably be happy with it as is but now that I know what's possible, I am anxious to defog that mirror!
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  #917  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:28 PM
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Nova looks good from here!

Got me to thinking, the last time I waxed ANY car was so long ago.
I waxed the 1978 Honda Civic CVCC back in about 1979'ish.

Just one of the many advantages to DD your Wheeler.
Pressure washed and looking solid at 10MPH & 20_Feet is good'nuff

E
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  #918  
Old 03-20-2018, 01:47 PM
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Thanks E! That was a major benefit of neglecting the paint. So what if it's dull and oxidized? I never worried about where I parked it. It didn't bother me if it hadn't been washed in a few weeks. So what if it gets scratched? Sure I can leave my wrench and this bottle of oil directly on top of the fender. After all this hard labor, I wonder how I'll feel about all that going forward.
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  #919  
Old 03-21-2018, 08:40 AM
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Looking great. What d/a are you using? With most (at least on a clear coat) you really dont need to worry much about body lines and edges too much. They just dont have the power to buff through paint. Now, a direct drive buffer, thats a different story.

The HF buffer is pretty decent for the $60 or w/e you can pick it up for these days. Its basically an exact copy of the porter cable. Swapping the gear head grease for something better than the screen door lube they use makes a huge difference in noise. I finally killed mine after 5 or 6 years.

Im eyeing a Rupes 21 now.

dan
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:07 AM
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Dan that's exactly what I decided to buy. I swapped the backing plate for a Lake County one and bought some Lake Country foam pads. Today I bought a 3" Griots polisher to help with some of the tighter areas and narrower places like the edge at the top of the doors.

Lots of money going into this detailing project but still much cheaper than all the metal repair and paint the car will eventually need.
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