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  #1  
Old 09-23-2011, 11:14 AM
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2Xtreme 2Xtreme is offline
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@&#$ valve cover leak!

I hope I am posting this in the right section. If not please feel free to move...

I currently have a leaking valve cover on my 258 that I am having a terrible time getting resolved.

I have gone through 3 gaskets using every combination of rtv/ applications I have found on the subject. I've tried copper rtv, Permatex black rtv, and Right Stuff. I've tried a small bead of rtv on both sides of gasket, a light buttering of rtv on both sides, etc, etc...
I 've done my best to straighten out the flange, but obviously am not able to get it perfect. And the poor design (hole locations) only serves to exasperate the issue.....

At $100.00+ for a new cover, a new one is not in the budget right now.

I saw on Ian using Loctite 568 on a rear diff cover on an episode of Xtreme4x4, which got me thinking maybe that might work. I checked the Loctite website and all I found was Loctite 5910 for this application.

Does anyone have any experience with this product or another that I can try??

I just want to drive the @%#$ thing... lol

Thanks in advance!

2X
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2011, 11:47 AM
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I'd check ebay for a valve cover. Are the three gaskets you tried all the same? Are you using a torque wrench to install? Are you positive that none of the bolts are stripped? I know on my 4.0 I used a rubber gasket. On some of the I6's the gaskets come with those weird spacers. Also, are you positive that it's leaking from the valve cover gasket? Silly questions, but have to be asked...

It sounds like something isn't square, or there's a bolt that's not torquing... If rtv and 3 different gaskets didn't do it, i wouldn't bother trying again. I'd try to find the problem, whether it be a cracked head near one of the bolt holes, a cracked valve cover, or just completely out of plane.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:47 PM
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ck your PVC valve make sure it is working first. has vacuum and is not plugged .
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:33 PM
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I had the same issues on my old CJ-5, I had a new aluiminum valve cover and decided to use the fancy fel-pro gasket from checkers and it leaked like a stuck pig. I ended up using a cheap cork gasket and some black rtv on one side. I also added some washers to the bolts to give it a little more surface area to push down. I had to trim the washers to make them fit, but it wasn't hard. Hope it helps
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobbers84 View Post
ck your PVC valve make sure it is working first. has vacuum and is not plugged .
This. Also you might consider load spreaders for the bolts if they'll fit. They sell them at most autopart stores.
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Last edited by TheBandit; 09-23-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:48 AM
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smosher 604 smosher 604 is offline
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after time the stock plastic valve covers warp and theres nothing to do but replace them and since you got the 258 like me its about that time
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:23 AM
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I guess I left out some pertinant information...

My leaking valve cover is the stamped steel one.
I've done all the flattening stuff, to the best of my ability.
I'm certain it is the valve cover leaking, as I have cleaned the entire motor several times to verify this.
Haven't checked the PCV valve lately, but as of a month ago it was fine.
All three of the gaskets I used were the Felpro cork gasket. There are two thickness for this gasket, each time I used the thicker once.
Whatever ends up being my next attemp, I will be using the 'spreaders' mentioned above

And of course, the stamped steel replacement cover seems to be unavailable.

I have also read suggestions of using Permatex's Right Stuff. Might give this a shot.

Does anyone have experience with this?
Their website seems to indicate no gasket is needed using this product

Again, thanks for the input!
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:46 AM
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I've used Right Stuff before. I like it. When it sets up it seems to form a gasket on its own. I haven't used it for valvecovers but I imagine it would work well there. Just don't go overboard with the stuff - excess squeezed out under the valvecover will make rubbery chunks that can get into oil galleys. I once used Right Stuff to seal part of my 22RE and years later found a strand of it caught up in the pickup screen on the oil pump.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:06 PM
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So you're saying you think Right Stuff is used WITHOUT a gasket, i.e. in place of...?
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
So you're saying you think Right Stuff is used WITHOUT a gasket, i.e. in place of...?
Yes. Clean both surfaces really well (I like to spray a little brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the gasket surfaces), apply a bead of Right Stuff to one of the parts (valve cover), let it set for a short time (whatever it says on the directions), then put the two parts together and tighten them down. No gasket.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:38 PM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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Just as a side note to the clean gasket surface thing. I really like to use lacquer thinner to do the wipe down it will leave zero residue behind and it is much cheaper the Brake cleaner. Or even less toxic and works nearly as good, rubbing alcohol, the greener cleaner. Buy it in the gallon containers and it is real cheap cleaner. ALL gasket surfaces must be spotless or you will have a leak. I worked on leaky Harleys for ten years, I can get just about any gasket to seal, but the single most important thing is CLEAN, no dirt and definitely no oil. I always try to clean at least a half inch on either side of where the gasket sits as well. Oil will find it's way under a gasket if you give it half a chance. Lastly, check to make sure the gasket surfaces are flat. No matter how good the gasket or clean up is two rough surfaces will not seal together.

My $.02.
Jaysin
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:00 AM
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May be pressure

Most valve cover leaks I have had that weren't mechanical (warped covers or poor gaskets) were from pressure. My ratio is about 3 to 1 form pressure. Make sure you check your PCV valve and hoses. The PCV may be fine, but the hose may be kinked further down. I have found that when you have positive pressure in the valve covers it is due to improper draining or a plugged PCV. If you can't vent the pressure under the piston then you will pressurize the top end and the valve cover gaskets are the first to go. After that you will start to lose timing seals and crank seals.
Hope that helped,
Sean
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:13 AM
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One more thought

Try venting your PCV line into a catch bottle. Put a press in filter on your valve cover. This will help identify the source of the problem. If your leak stops it was pressure and the catch bottle will fill up. If not the it is a mechanical sealing issue.

Make sure you remove the PCV valve and put the inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top. You can also put a filter on top of the catch bottle if it will fit instead of an outlet line. Not a permanent solution unless you you want to go through the steps to make it permanent.
Good luck,
Sean
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2011, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
Just as a side note to the clean gasket surface thing....I always try to clean at least a half inch on either side of where the gasket sits as well. Oil will find it's way under a gasket if you give it half a chance.
I like this idea!

Going to give it another shot this weekend if Mother Nature cooperates.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:44 PM
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How bad and where is it leaking? Pics might help. I have a good idea but sometimes pics tell a story you might be missing.

I dunno you or the engine so I will ask is it older and dirty or well kept up?

Might have the oil return ports going back to the pan plugged up and building up oil up top. This makes sealing these a much bigger pain.
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  #16  
Old 10-13-2011, 01:01 PM
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^^ what they said.

check the PCV and use "the right stuff".
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:33 PM
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josh hennen josh hennen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysinspaceman View Post
just as a side note to the clean gasket surface thing. I really like to use lacquer thinner to do the wipe down it will leave zero residue behind and it is much cheaper the brake cleaner. Or even less toxic and works nearly as good, rubbing alcohol, the greener cleaner. Buy it in the gallon containers and it is real cheap cleaner. All gasket surfaces must be spotless or you will have a leak. I worked on leaky harleys for ten years, i can get just about any gasket to seal, but the single most important thing is clean, no dirt and definitely no oil. I always try to clean at least a half inch on either side of where the gasket sits as well. Oil will find it's way under a gasket if you give it half a chance. Lastly, check to make sure the gasket surfaces are flat. No matter how good the gasket or clean up is two rough surfaces will not seal together.

My $.02.
Jaysin
listen to this guy!!!!!!
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