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Old 02-27-2013, 11:32 AM
2Xtreme's Avatar
2Xtreme 2Xtreme is offline
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Thoughts on Rebuild or Remanufactured 258...??

The 258 in my CJ is just not reliable enough for my taste. Leaks here and there, a slight knock in the bottom end and a pinging has started. It sits more than it drives.

I see re-manufactured engines advertised for anywhere from $1300-$2000, plus core.

I am wondering if that is more economical than having a shop rebuild it, start to finish. With me just pulling it and reinstalling it after I pick it up.

I would only be looking for a stock rebuild, no performance parts added. And obviously, a reman would be less down time as well.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
2X
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:48 AM
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alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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My thoughts;
A reman is going to be cheapest because that's the business they do...efficiency. If a warranty issue crops up there is more shipping plus re + re.
A shop will charge more as they are a generalist...not as efficient. If a warranty issue crops up they are local, no shipping and maybe no personal re + re.
Unless the shop specializes in rebuilds of the motor you want, then....? More research.
I might buy a second motor to be rebuilt while still driving the first if local is what you choose.
I've also started trying to support local when they are close in price. How close in price is enough is up to you.

Richard
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:30 PM
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For myself there is one really important thing.
Where is the re-builder located?
"IF" they are local to me then I can see just buying a 'Reman'.
If not I'd option for a local machine shop that has a good reputation.

The large rebuilder can save you money because they buy parts in volume something that the local machine shop likely can not. However, the smaller builder can often deliver a better machined product...

If something is wrong with the engine and having spent time in the trade I can tell you that "S" happens. having to deal with pulling and shipping an engine is a total PITA.

E
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:49 PM
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2Xtreme 2Xtreme is offline
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Good info, as always!
And points I didn't consider.

Luckily for me, the local place is a mile from my house and has a good reputation.

I do have a second motor I could have rebuilt while I keep the one I have in the rig, provided the casting numbers all check out. have to look into that.

On the other hand, I do have a chance to get a good 304 at a reasonable price...

Decisions, decisions....
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:30 PM
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The 258 is a grand old engine and works well inside it's limits, that said I've never seen a 258 that didn't leak oil someplace and I only say that because you brought it up and the 304 can be a serious upgrade for near the same cost,; but my favorite was my CJ6 which had a fairly stock 283-Chev in the nose. Made good power and would rev to the moon! If I was to build a CJ today I would only look at the 283 or 302 Chevy, the AMC 304, or the 289/302 Ford

E
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:45 AM
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JaysinSpaceman JaysinSpaceman is offline
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The answer depends on a lot of questions being asked first but it's late and I don't want to ask them, so. The only thing I will ask is... Are you putting an engine in it to sell it or keep it?

If I am keeping it, I want to make the decisions about what exactly goes into the rebuild. Does it just get a re-ring or overbore and pistons? New valve guides even though they are technically still "within spec" (read very close to the limit)? Etc...

When a Reman house builds an engine they are doing it to make money and if it measures within spec it doesn't get replaced (unless it's a known problem).

So I asked more questions, they have got to be answered before a insightful decision can be made.

Good luck,
Jaysin
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:32 AM
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2Xtreme 2Xtreme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman View Post
The only thing I will ask is... Are you putting an engine in it to sell it or keep it?

If I am keeping it, I want to make the decisions about what exactly goes into the rebuild. Does it just get a re-ring or overbore and pistons? New valve guides even though they are technically still "within spec" (read very close to the limit)? Etc...
I will definitely be keeping it.
And I don't know a lot about the different 'levels' of rebuilds and what goes into them (re-ring, valve-guides, etc). So if going that route, I would just have to trust the shop to communicate with me.

Sounds like the consensus is a reman is the best option only if looking to unload the vehicle...
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