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  #121  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:12 PM
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  #122  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:13 PM
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last week I got some more stuff done. Made some kick panel speaker pods which still need some body work and eventually upholstery. Installed a set of bucket seats and worked on the tune a bit more.







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  #123  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:13 PM
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did some work on the wheel wells and started on the foundation for the bed wood... and a shot of wheel lip.




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  #124  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:15 PM
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I'm getting a little closer to putting the big brakes on the front. Not sure how well the CCA pine will hold up, so may switch to maple or oak. I also made a new master cylinder push rod with a heim joint on the pedal end. this made the pedal feel a lot better since there was a little slop in the old set up.





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  #125  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:18 PM
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a multi day ramble about efi tuning:

This makes no sense to me. Been playing with the 41's efi tune. One thing I'm having trouble with comes on as IAT and ECT get up into their normal (for the 41) fully warmed up cruising temps. Before it's fully warm, things seem pretty good, minimal issues. After fully warm it seems to get lean when opening the throttle. The faster the throttle opens, the worse it is. Basically it backfires lightly. I'm leaving actual A/F numbers out of this because I began by tuning for normal numbers, but this combo likes a richer than normal A/F. Not crazy, just a bit rich. I have IAT and ECT enrichment set to no enrichment when at cruising temps. Before it gets to cruising temps it acts ok so I'm thinking that my AE is ok - MAP, TPS changes, etc. I'm going to try 2 tables that I found in the canned FAST tunes that add fuel as temp goes up.

this gets more interesting. I loaded those two tables in and went for a drive. The first thing I noticed is that it's not coming up to the temp it normally does, which is around 200-210 degrees. It's hanging around 180-190. At first I thought that it was never going to get into the enrichment I added. And then I saw that the O2 correction was at max, just over -10%. Then I saw that the A/F was around 10:1 ! I would've expected it to feel rich and sluggish but it seemed to be running very well. I stopped at a light and it stalled because it was way too rich at that point. I haven't looked at the log yet so I'm not sure what WOT is. Aside from the idle stall, it seemed to run better than ever. I'm wondering if the O2 sensor calibration may be off some and it's giving a reading that is a bit richer than it actually is. I may hook up my stand alone wideband to check it.

after looking at the log and realizing how bad my clothes stink from the rich exhaust, I think the O2 readings are probably correct or close. There's no option to calibrate the O2 readings. First I'm going to drive it again with the temperature based enrichment cut in 1/2. Depending on how that goes I may try changing the target A/F ratio in the cruise area and add some fuel to the same area of the VE table. I can't believe that operating temp dropped by about 20 degrees, I did not expect that to happen.

Last edited by wedged; 06-20-2019 at 02:37 PM.
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  #126  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:21 PM
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I can only assume that during the most recent tuning I must have gone too lean and had some detonation that I did not hear. Ended up with a rod knock. oops. The short block has a stock cast crank and stock smog pistons so it's not that big of a deal to hurt it.

the crank didn't look horrible



bearing for 7 & 8 spun



5 & 6 didn't spin but look pretty bad




The rest of the bearings weren't great but not horrible




stripper glitter in the pan



went to walmart and got an engine rebuild kit




then decided that i should try some new bearings




notched the crossmember so a 6 qt pan would fit




added a fitting for future use










after starting it up, it had good oil pressure so I fully warmed it up, let it cool for a while and then went for a drive. I made it about 3/4 of mile from the house and the knock was back. Continued on a 4 mile loop back to the house which included a WOT run up to about 4,600 rpm to data log.




I then checked inventory and scoured craiglslist to try to find a running 440 cheap.







The wife said to fix it right so who am I to argue ?


Last edited by wedged; 06-20-2019 at 02:36 PM.
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  #127  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:23 PM
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1975 block, standard bore.



4.150 stroker crank :dance



Icon dished pistons. should end up about 9.3:1 with the 84 cc Edelbrock heads



Rods & cam bearings



...and I have to deal with this some how. I need 1/4" more clearance to fit a high volume pump in there. I've already go an idea and it doesn't involve moving the engine.

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  #128  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:23 PM
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i confirmed the 1975 block was untouched after it left the factory. It still had a rope rear main seal and the bearings had a 1975 date on them. The Eagle crank looks really nice. I wanted to see where the block might need some clearance work. The oil pick up boss for sure, but I can't tell if the bottom of the bores will need anything.

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  #129  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:25 PM
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pulled the engine last sunday





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  #130  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:26 PM
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I got some of the block prep done over the weekend. Removed casting flash, drilled and tapped for 1/2" pickup and radiused the junction in the oil intake passage









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  #131  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:28 PM
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this straight coupler is about 1/2" smaller in diameter than the stock dakota vibration dampener coupler. That should allow enough clearance for a high volume oil pump. I need to get a new u-joint coupler to make this work.



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  #132  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:28 PM
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The block is almost ready to go to the machine shop. I reamed the oil feeds from the oil galley to the main bearing to 9/32". Still waiting for the main caps and girdle to show up.



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  #133  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:29 PM
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The machine shop Mesa Balancing sent me a few pictures of the block after it was acid washed and shot peened. The owner, Laz, said they did some balance work earlier this week.










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  #134  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:30 PM
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They started mock up on the block for fitting the BCR Products main caps and the girdle. They found the main cap studs are a little longer than the overall height of the cap. This means they need to use bolts for the caps while they machine the cap and oil pan rail to match. Then the studs can go back in. They also found the studs didn't quite fit through the clearance holes in the girdle so they are going to open those holes a little. In the pictures it appears that the caps are below the pan rail. Laz confirmed that the caps are in fact taller than the oil pan rail.





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  #135  
Old 06-20-2019, 02:30 PM
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The pan rails were machined and now the girdle fits.



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  #136  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:14 PM
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everything got dropped off last night and today I put the block on the stand.







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  #137  
Old 06-24-2019, 11:44 AM
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Man that's too bad she developed a knock. I wonder if that was really tune-related or just coincidental. Seems if it was running rich, the tune should have been fairly safe. Did you ever figure out the source of the knock and the glitter in the oil?

That main girdle setup looks stout! What are your power goals for this build?
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  #138  
Old 06-25-2019, 09:40 AM
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I had leaned it out after the very rich tune. If you look through the pics you can see the rod bearings from the first time. I didn't bother pulling the rod caps yet this time, just stripped the top end and put it on a stand. I'm thinking 750 hp is reasonable.
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  #139  
Old 07-27-2019, 07:34 AM
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I have not done any mock up of the short block yet, but I have been thinking about modifying the intake manifold so I can install an LS style throttle body. I made a cardboard mock up and then edited the picture to look like what I may do.

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  #140  
Old 12-12-2019, 08:20 PM
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It's been a few months since I updated. There was a bunch of other stuff I was working on plus some travel and a career change which contributed to some delays in progress and posting updates. I have done several mock ups and ran into a few issues. The first issue was that one of the main journals on the crank had a small area near the radius that was not ground correctly. it was a few thousands too big and locked the crank when the nuts for the caps were just run down hand tight. That was corrected and then the crank spun very easily with oil. Once that was done I could mock up a pair of pistons and rods in each hole, one pair of bores at a time. Several bores needed to be clearanced for the rod bolts. As expected the oil pick up boss needed work too. I also mixed a few .001 undersized rod bearings with standard ones to get the oil clearance the machine shop wanted. Then file fit all of the rings with the extra clearance for pressurizing the intake manifold. I installed all of the core plugs, pipe plugs, pistons and rings. The cam is also in place but I have not installed the timing chain. Next was fitting the oil pick up tube. It still needs some work and I will be modifying the oil pan too. I will also be modifying a Milodon windage tray so it won't be sandwiched between the pan the girdle.
















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