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Old 03-20-2017, 11:35 PM
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TheBandit TheBandit is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ventura County CA
Posts: 4,654
My garage is a 3 door 20x30. The 20ft depth does not leave much room in front of a car for a workbench and room to stand, so I need to pull the car in just far enough to close the door and no more. Instead of dangling a tennis ball, I picked up parking laser pointer that activates with motion. I have it pointing to the transition between the hood and cowl panel so all I have to do is watch it as I pull in. This gets the back of the car as close as possible to the roll-up door so I have a couple feet in front to work.



I've decided to take the car out at least once a week, weather permitting, when I take my son to baseball practice. I love that I can fire it up and drive off immediately, without waiting for things to warm up, and it runs without stumbling to wherever I need to go. Of course it runs better as it warms up, but the fact that I can get out of the driveway with it cold is a huge improvement over my old carbed setup, which had no choke/fast idle and needed to run a few minutes before throwing into gear.

Here's a photo of the car at the baseball fields a couple weeks ago.



It occurred to me that a long time ago during the swap I had found the vacuum modulator screw was adjusted all the way out loose and I had turned it in about 1.5 revolutions because I read somewhere that was a good base line. Since getting the swap running and having the transmission problems, I've tried disconnecting vacuum and adjusting the screw in tighter, but I hadn't tried backing the screw out to loose again. So before a drove to practice yesterday, I loosened the screw and what do you know, it now will shift into 3rd and usually hold it there under part throttle. Something tells me I'm back to where the transmission was before the swap. I'm wondering now if maybe the line pressure or governor pressure is too low, requiring a loose modulator screw plus vacuum to allow the governor pressure to overcome the modulator and cause a shift. Maybe that would explain why the transmission is acting oddly with engine load / vacuum. At any rate it does seem to at least shift more normally now.

On the way to practice, I stopped at the pharmacy to pick up some albuterol for my daughter. She has breathing problems when she gets sick, so we have to treat her with a nebulizer. It sucks when she's sick.



When I got to practice, I had to parallel park and the power steering was just awful. That's when I discovered the fluid level had dropped to just the tip of the dipstick. After topping it off it started working more like it should. I'm guessing the system previously had some air that wouldn't burp. Good news there!



After practice, we drove over to one of our favorite sandwich shops where I took this framer photo of my boy. He always asks to take the Nova everywhere we go - I hate to turn him down.



Here is a picture of my happy place - "the office". I still have a few dangling wires that I need to do something with, but I just can't find time to get any real work done on the car right now. I've had a recently family loss, and I'm contending with my job, unexpected house repairs, and all the demands of parenting. Anyway, near the parking brake I have rolled up the tach wires that need to be connected still and all the gauge wiring under the dash needs to be tied up or replaced with mechanical gear.



I read the oil pressure after warmup with the OBD2 reader and found it was showing a hair over 20psi while the gauge read about 15psi. I trust the obd2 over the gauge, but I still want to confirm with a mechanical gauge.

Looking forward to a lot more driving and buttoning up some loose ends!
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Clint

Ongoing 70 Nova build: http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8160

Last edited by TheBandit; 03-21-2017 at 06:41 PM.
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