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TheBandit 10-18-2012 11:13 PM

Judging by my track record this thing will be sitting for years. I don't think regular motor oil or perhaps even fossil fuel will still be here when I finally fire it up.

JaysinSpaceman 10-19-2012 10:00 AM


Not true my friend.

At least your bender is finished.


TheBandit 10-20-2012 07:19 PM


I picked up some Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube from the local speed shop. Removing all the white lithium stuff from the main bearings, journals, and crank cross drillings took a bit of work, but I am more comfortable using this stuff. I am a bit disappointed at how runny it is; while it is sticky and snot like, over time it runs and drips. Anyway here are the mains lubed up


After dropping the crank in and main caps snugged down but not tight, I gave the crank a few blows rearward than a number of good blows forward to set the thrust bearing. I used ARP supplied lube on the studs and followed the proper tightening sequence, putting a sharpie mark on each stud after I was done torquing it.



Here are the new Compstar forged rods. These are a beautiful design. They use ARP 2000 bolts.



Here is the first piston rod assembly going together (no 1). I had some trouble at first with the spira locks, but after watching a couple videos on You Tube I was able to get them in quickly. One tip that I liked was to have the pin in place when you install the first lock as a safety measure to keep from damaging the pin bore. Here is a spiralock partially installed. Getting them started is the hardest part, but once the first spiral is about 1/2-3/4 in, you can just work your way around with a flathead screwdriver to press then into place.


One note on the rods; the big end bore has a larger chamfer on one side than the other. I put this facing the nearby counterweight. I believe it is intended for crank fillet clearance, but I don't think it matters on a factory crank.

With the rods and pistons together, I installed the rings. The oil control rings & spacer were installed by spiralling them on (per the instructions). I used ring expanders on the top & 2nd rings. The rings were marked with an "N" on the top surface and the top ring was shiney compared to the 2nd ring.


Next I coated my Summit 4.030 fixed ring compressor with oil and carefully pressed the piston into place, compressing the rings by hand on initial entry to prevent damage. Once it was far enough in, I tapped it the rest of the way in with a rubber mallet. This ring compressor worked great. I can't imagine trying to struggle with an adjustable compressor.


Then I carefully pushed the piston and rod down the bore with my hand underneath to align the rod onto the crank. I installed the cap and hand tightened the rod bolts (not yet torqued).




You can see above the lube gets all over the place. Should I be worried that some found its way onto the flat mating surfaces between the rod and cap or will it just squeeze out during final torque?

After the piston was in, I rotated the crank and wow this thing cycles smooth as butter! Let me know if you see anything concerning.

TheBandit 10-22-2012 12:37 PM


I had a productive weekend, but unfortunately haven't been able to upload my photos yet. I took apart my phaser completely, down to the individual loose components. To some degree I just couldn't help myself - I wanted to see how it worked. There are some very nicely made parts in there with very tight fits. I don't know how GM can sell replacements for around $100 list. Each phaser vane has a small leaf spring that keeps it biased outward (careful - these are easy to lose). The hub in the center that attaches to the cam is a very tight rotating fit with the housing. There are tiny feed holes all over the place for oil. And there's a small spring loaded plunger behind the hub that seems to either regulate oil flow or maybe act as a detent - I'm not sure. The trigger wheel that also retains the "clock" spring is held by 3 extremely small press pins. If you take it apart this far be very careful not to lose parts and also to get each part back together in the correct orientation/clocking so you don't inadvertently affect the came phasing. I took photos as I took it apart and tracked parts on the workbench to make sure they got right back to where they started.

One of the questions I wanted to answer was can this thing be put back together? My conclusion is, maybe. The coil spring is extremely stiff so it would be very hard to rewind. There appear to be some access holes on the trigger wheel where you could put pins to temporarily hold the spring together while assembling it onto the rest of the phaser. I think once you get the spring wound, the rest of the assembly can be done and would be reasonably straight forward, but winding that spring will be extremely difficult. I plan to give this a try once I'm done with this phaser, but I plan to buy a new one regardless for actual use.

Okay, so on to the progress. After disassembling the phaser, I added the phaser limiter block from Comp Cams. I found that the screws holding the phaser together were actually the perfect diameter to block the vanes into the fully advanced position, so I cut a screw and put it in. This would seem like a waste of a screw, but I had other troubles that led me there. On an initial assembly, one of the torx drives completely stripped out of one of the phaser bolts. Maybe I applied too much torque or maybe the tool didn't fit well, but the result was drilling out the head of the screw so I could get it out. What a pain that was. I will be VERY careful torquing these next time.

With the phaser locked in the fully advanced position, I installed the cam and got started degreeing it using the no1 cylinder and measuring from my solid lifters. I found TDC using the indicator method, looking for the spots on either side of TDC where the piston was .100 below peak. I measured each side of TDC with the piston coming up from the bottom of the bore after pressing down on the piston by hand to take out slack in the bearing/pin clearances (had to rotate CW for one and CCW for the other to make this happen). I checked it 3 times to make sure it was right; each time .100 corresponded to equal distance on either side of TDC on the degree wheel. For the cam timing, I measured through three revolutions for both intake & exhaust and got the same values each time. I will outline the steps once I upload photos, but let me just discuss the results for now:
Cam Card / Measured

Intake @ 0.050
Open (BTDC): 5 / 7
Close (ABDC): 41 / 40.5
ICL (ATDC): 108 / 106.75*
Duration: 227 / 227.5*
Lift: .361 / .362

Exhaust @ 0.050
Open (BBDC): 55 / 57
Close (BTDC): 0 / 1
ECL (BTDC): 117.5* / 119*
Duration: 235 / 236*
Lift: .365 / .365

LSA: 113 (112.75*) / 112.875*

* calculated from open/close events using this calculator
Compared to the cam card, the cam appears to be advanced ~1.25deg (easily adjusted w/ VVT). The intake has 0.5deg more duration & 0.001in more tappet lift. The exhaust has 1deg more duration. The LSA seems to split the difference between what's stated on the cam card and what I calculated from the cam card open/close events.

I'm not 100% sure what the acceptance limits should be for a cam. My gut says these numbers are fine, but what do you think?

The next step is to check piston-valve clearance. I got everything setup last night, but had to stop work to get to bed (will outline with photos later). I had one observation I thought I should ask about. All the rocker arms seem to have a lot of play in the trunnion bearings. I can shift them up & down by what feels like .005-.010in and rock them off angle from their shafts. Is this an intentional design "feature" for self alignment or is something wrong?

TheBandit 10-23-2012 12:20 AM

As promised, here are some photos of my progress. First, here is the disassembled phaser with both the Comp Cams limiter and a cut-down screw (very hard to see sorry) between the vanes to lock it into a fully advanced position. You are looking at the rear of the assembly in this photo, so rotating the vanes CCW here will rotate the cam CW (advanced) with respect to the engine. Note you can also see in the top right of this photo the unsprung "clock" spring that keeps this assembly in the advanced position when no oil pressure is applied.


I lubed the cam with assembly lube and carefully installed it in the block while holding it with the long bolt supplied with the cam. Then I installed the timing set "dot-to-dot", using the long bolt to pull the cam forward while seating the phaser onto the cam pin. Note in these photos I have an allen wrench installed to keep the tensioner held back, but later removed it during the degreeing process.



Next I installed the degree wheel I bought from Summit. I fashioned a pointer from a coat hanger and mounted it on the front of the block, cutting the end to a point for improved accuracy. Then I used a magnetic base indicator stand to position my indicator over the center of the piston. I used the method described in my previous post to find TDC and adjusted the pointer appropriately.



After cleaning and oiling the outside of my welded-solid lifters, I installed them in their bores over the cam lobe and made sure they moved freely. Next came the most challenging aspect of this - getting this stand adjusted so I could actually measure. It sounds silly, but it did take a bit of time just finding a good way to position the arms to make this work. I also had to install an extended tip on my indicator to make it reach. Fortunately I have a set of tips in my machinist box. I have to admit this stand and indicator came from Harbor Freight many years ago when I only intended to use them once for setting up gears. I have some better quality indicators in my box, but none with enough travel for this job.


Here you can see I used the edge of the lifter to read from. Even though the plunger was welded on these lifters, I felt the flat surface on the outside would be a better location to read from.


The results of degreeing the cam are described in my previous post. Altogether it took about two hours and probably less than $50 in tools between the Summit wheel, coat hanger and HF indicator & stand. When i get further along I will be repeating some of these measurements with the phaser locked to full retard so I can see how much mechanical phaser travel is available.

Next I moved on to piston-valve clearance. The first step was cleaning and installing the old MLS head gaskets. The new gaskets I bought are the same GM part number, so these old gaskets should replicate the compressed thickness.


Installing the head took some time because I am using ARP fasteners and needed to lube them with the ARP thread lube. This is important because it gives more consistent clamping. I put a dab under the head of the bolt, a dab under the washer, and a smearing over the first ten threads or more which tends to be enough to coat them completely while they're installed. I torqued the bolts using the factory-recommended sequence in 3 steps per the ARP instructions. Then I came up with yet another creative way to position my indicator stand to measure valve-piston clearance.



Before installing the rockers, I dropped in an adjustable pushrod so I can acheive zero lash. My plan is to rotate the crank in small increments (using the degree wheel for reference), push the valve down with my finger until it contacts the piston, and measuring the valve travel with the indicator positioned as above. This will tell me the valve clearance for that position of the crank. I will have to repeat until I find the minimum clearance. I will do this for both the intake and exhaust, although the intake should be most limited in this scenario with the phaser fully advanced since the intake will be opening sooner as the piston is approaching TDC. When the phaser is fully retarded, the exhaust valve will have it's minimum clearance since it will be closing later as the piston approaches TDC.

PDANKracing 10-23-2012 02:06 AM


Originally Posted by TheBandit (Post 123719)

I had one observation I thought I should ask about. All the rocker arms seem to have a lot of play in the trunnion bearings. I can shift them up & down by what feels like .005-.010in and rock them off angle from their shafts. Is this an intentional design "feature" for self alignment or is something wrong?

If i remember correctly the rocker arms on my 6.0 did not have any play in the bearings. I will double check them and see, but if you think about it, any deflection in the rocker arm isn't going to be good. The inconsistent motion will probably case excessive wear at the valve and pushrod contact points. Comp cams makes a trunnion upgrade kit at a very reasonable price of $135, http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...Trunnion-Kits/

Good question about the lube on the conrods, not sure but I would guess that it would be fine since there isn't a place for it to get trapped. I always wipe of mating sufaces though, never really thought about why....

TheBandit 10-23-2012 12:57 PM

The play is taken up when the pushrod is in place and the rocker is captured between the pushrod and valve, but if I just bolt it down to the stand without a pushrod or valve, I can lift it and rock in strange ways. I'll try to make a video of it. I know these factory rockers are known for wider bearing clearances, but I don't know how much wider. What I'm seeing seems excessive to me.

I know Comp Cams sells a trunion & bearing upgrade setup, but I contacted Hardland Sharp instead to see what I could learn about their product. I spoke to Randy Jr, son of the owner (Randy Sr) at length about what they offer. Here is a photo:


As an engineer, I was pleased to get real technical information and hear some of the differences between the HS kit and the Comp kit as well as understand the manufacturing processes and tolerances associated with the components. Design wise they are very similar, but HS does have two notable differences. First, HS cross drills their journals to provide access for splash oil to get to the bearings. With the bearing cage in place, there is less opportunity for oil to make its way in (compared to a factory rocker), so this is a definite plus over the Comp design. Second, the HS trunions include hardened washers between the c-clips and the rocker. The HS parts are 100% US made; the cap screws, retaining clips, washers, and bearings are all US parts. The trunions are centerless ground in house by HS. The bearings themselves are the same part from the same US manufacturer as the Comp kit.

Beyond the technical details, I was impressed with Randy's open and friendly communication and have a huge amount of respect for a successful family-run business. If you are considering a trunion upgrade, I would strongly consider calling them. I will also say that while the HS kit cost more than the Comp kit, it isn't as big of a discrepancy as the website pricing would have you think. I decided to buy the HS kit and paid considerably less than their advertised price.

One other note from my conversation with Randy while it's fresh in mind. I told Randy I had heard of some people experiencing binding after installing the Comp kit. Since HS prefers to install these themselves for their customers, I asked what I should look out for that might cause that kind of issue. He said you need to be careful during assembly not to press the bearing against the trunion. There should be some side clearance between the bearing cage and the stepped diameter of the trunion or binding will occur. If you press these together and find they are not moving freely, you can lightly tap on the trunion to shift the bearing race in its bore and reintroduce clearance.

TheBandit 10-24-2012 12:41 AM

Here is a video I took exploring my stock rocker arm trunnion clearances. They all seem to be about the same.


TheBandit 10-24-2012 11:59 AM

Had just enough time last night to measure the intake valve clearance with the phaser at full advance. I did this by rotating the crank in 2 degree increments, pushing down on the tip of the valve (through the rocker) and measuring the travel of the valve until it hit the piston. I got a minimum intake valve to piston clearace of .210in. Here is the raw data:

Intake, Phaser Fully Advanced
crank deg (starting from BTDC) / clearance (in)
4 .270
2 .260
0 .250
2 .235
4 .227
6 .219
8 .210
10 .210
12 .210
14 .210

16 .222
18 .231
20 .245
22 .258

I thought it was interesting that for range of about 6 crank degrees the valve chased the piston, maintaining the same minimum clearance. This looks like plenty of clearance. Speaking hypothetically and assuming I got a little crazy, I could run a 1.8 rocker ratio to increase lift from .614 to .650. This would reduce P-V clearance by less than .036; .036 would be for max lift, but since the rocker change is a ratio change, the clearance would be less impacted at lower lifts earlier in the valve opening where minimum P-V clearance happens. For what it's worth, the dual springs I have are rated for .650in lift so that would definitely be pushing it. Not to mention coil bind, seal clearance, rocker tip sweep, etc. I don't plan on going down that road any time soon, but it is good to know I have margin on intake valve clearance.

I will do the exhaust valve next (even though with the phaser currently advanced it will not be worst case). Then I plan to remove the head and clay the piston to check radial clearance. After that I get to do this all over again with the phaser in the retarded position. I also need to decide if I should do this for the other side of the engine. I am tempted not to with this much clearance, but I'll have to see how close the exhaust valve comes. If I don't check the other side, I will at a minimum check the piston-deck protrusion. I did measure piston-deck protrusion on this side and it was an even .010, which agrees perfectly with the deck height QMP reported.

TheBandit 10-24-2012 12:10 PM


Originally Posted by TheBandit (Post 123671)
You can see above the lube gets all over the place. Should I be worried that some found its way onto the flat mating surfaces between the rod and cap or will it just squeeze out during final torque?

Can anyone tell me if I should be concerned about this? I can pull the caps and clean off the ends again, but I'm sure the lube will just find its way back in there as I put the caps back on. Come to think of it something similar probably happened with the mains when I torqued the caps down. I'm thinking it's nothing to worry about, but could use some reassurance.

EDIT: I called Callies just to be sure and they said not to worry about it - it squeezes out as you torque them down. I am such a rookie!

JaysinSpaceman 10-25-2012 10:42 AM

If you In./Ex. valve clearances check good on the side you're checking and the piston deck height is the same on the other bank of pistons I would not bother, unless you are going to check every valve.

Everything looks good so far.


TheBandit 10-26-2012 11:36 AM

More piston-valve clearance results, this time for the exhaust. I think this is very interesting.

Exhaust, Phaser Fully Advanced
crank deg (starting from BTDC) / clearance (in)
24 .304
22 .285
20 .272
18 .260
16 .251
14 .244
12 .239
10 .235
8 .235

6 .236
4 .242
2 .249
0 .257

After obtaining this data, I removed the phaser and locked it into full retard with the Comp Cams limiter in place. Because I had to remove the degree wheel and I left the heads on, I did not have true TDC for the next set of numbers. I did however have the degree wheel on and eyeballed TDC based on the dot facing up on the crank timing sprocket. That allowed me to work in 2 degree increments, but the "0" reference may be off a tad. Here is the data

Exhaust, Phaser Fully Retarded, Comp limiter in place
approx crank deg (BTDC) / clearance (in)
20 .150
18 .144
16 .137
14 .136
12 .135
10 .137
8 .142
6 .150
4 .160
2 .172
0 .188

I find a few things very interesting about the above data. Retarding the cam this much killed about .100 of piston-valve clearance. For the advance position, minimum clearance was .235. For the retarded position, minimum clearance was .135. It's also interesting that for the retarded position, over a range from 20-10degrees BTDC, the clearance changed by only .015in while for the advanced position it changed by .037in. I think this make sense because in the retarded position, the exhaust lobe is probably on the steeper portion of it's closing ramp. It is closing faster so it is able to follow movement of the piston better. For the advance position, the exhaust lobe is on a slower part of it's ramp, so the piston is coming up faster than it's closing.

From what I've read .135 is still considered acceptable, but it makes me wonder about others who are using this cam in LY6 and L99 applications. I don't think those pistons have as much valve relief as the Wisecos I'm running. I will try to get some measurements on my old LY6 pistons to compare.

TheBandit 10-30-2012 11:44 AM

Here is a better photo showing the phaser locked to full advance. You can see I cut off one of the stripped phaser screws (using a bolt cutter). It happened to fit perfectly.


To get the phaser to full retard, I tried random objects from the garage and found a 1/4" hex drive bit was a great fit.


I had to cut the end off because it was a bit long. I took it outside and used a Dremel with a small abrasive cutoff wheel.


Here are the results for the intake valve in full retard. This time I knocked the pointer, so 0 is at least a few degrees off from TDC. I've read a number of places that minimum clearance tends to occur around 10BTDC for exhaust and 10ATDC for intake, which is consistent with my other measurements.

Intake, Phaser Fully Retarded
approx crank deg (BTDC) / clearance (in)
4 .315
2 .310
0 .310
2 .305
4 .305

6 .308
8 .314

In summary, here are my minimum clearances in full advance/full retard
Intake: .210/.305
Exhaust: .235/.135

My next step will be claying the pistons to confirm and check radial clearance.

TheBandit 10-30-2012 12:04 PM

I thought I'd take a photo comparing the factory dished LY6 piston to my flattop Wiseco piston. The dish makes it hard to see, but the exhaust valve reliefs are very close to the same depth. That is why limiting the retard travel is critical when using a larger cam, even with an aftermarket piston. The LY6 piston has no intake valve relief beyond the dish, so I'm sure these aftermarket pistons are helping a bit.


I continued assembly work over the weekend and last night. There really wasn't a lot that I felt was photograph worthy, so here are some random shots. First, a piston-rod assembly going together with the second spiralock partially installed:


Here is a view of a top-ring installed. These GFX ring sets have an "N" laser marked onto the top face. I clocked the rings with the top ring and second 180 apart facing front & rear and the oil control rings about 45 degrees each from the top of the piston (in opposite directions), per the diagram supplied by Wiseco. While installing the rings, I supported the piston rod assembly in my soft-jawed vise with very very light pressure on the rod.


All slugs are in their holes



And the rods are all torqued. Here you can see how runny & messy this Permatex Ultra Slick is. There's probably still enough in there to keep it lubed, but I don't think I'll use this stuff again. It makes a mess.


I gotta pick up some modeling clay for the final PTV check (wife said she had some in her craft supplies, but couldn't find it when I needed it), then I'll be off and running finishing this into a longblock.

My wife told me I am to stop spending so much time photographing and posting about my build and use that time instead to get actual work done. I see her point - I spend a lot of time on these forums that I could be using to make progress, but on the other hand I get a lot of enjoyment out of sharing the build and learning from others. I will probably back off a little, but don't expect me to disappear; I am a forum junkie.

tommy_harrell 10-30-2012 09:05 PM


Originally Posted by TheBandit (Post 123910)

I continued assembly work over the weekend and last night. There really wasn't a lot that I felt was photograph worthy, so here are some random shots. First, a piston-rod assembly going together with the second spiralock partially installed:


Had one of them sneaky spiralocks crawl out on a motorcycle... after 58k miles. Wrist pin slid over, scored the cylinder wall, hammered the piston and rod. Found it laying in the bottom of the crankcase after pressing the case halves apart. Never did figure out how it crawled out, always figured it they stay in place for tank of fuel, the would stay forever.


TheBandit 11-01-2012 10:48 AM

That sucks! These things all had a nice resounding "snap" as the last bit of spiral sprung into its groove. I looked them over carefully to make sure they were in properly. I sure hope I don't have that happen to me. Maybe something else failed first?

TheBandit 11-01-2012 11:55 AM

Piston valve clearance, clay method, VVT

Here is the clay method I used for checking PTV clearance using a VVT cam. It isn't all that different from doing it with a nonVVT cam, just a few added steps and for now the use of a sacrificed phaser.

First I locked the phaser to full advance as shown below. I am using a cut-off screw that happened to fit well when combined with a phaser limiter block.


Next, I installed the cam using the dot-to-dot method.


Then I applied approximately 1/4" thick strips of modelling clay to the top of the piston with the piston dry & clean. I pressed them into place so they stuck well to the piston, then sprayed the top of the clay, the valves, and the combustion chamber with WD-40 to prevent sticking.


Next (not shown) I installed two solid lifters for this bore. Then I installed the cylinder head with an old gasket of the same installed thickness as the gasket I intend to use (in this case, the same PN MLS gasket from GM).

I installed my old (nonadjustable) pushrods and rockers, then adjusted them to zero lash using the rocker bolts . Before this can be done the crank must be rotated 180 because when the timing marks are set dot-to-dot, the no1 cylinder is in the overlap phase (both valves partially open).

Finally, I rotated the crank through two revolutions so the valves would make an impression on the clay. The impression left would represent minimum clearance with the cam at full advance, but I care about both full advance and full retard.

I rotated until both the crank sprocket dot and cam sprocket "dot" (arrow) were facing up. This put the no1 valves on their base circle. I made a mark to the cam sprocket tooth nearest the crank dot so I could get it back into position later.


Next I removed the phaser and locked it to full retard as shown below. In this case, I cut off the tip of a 1/4" hex drive philips bit which happened to fit perfectly.


Then I reinstalled the phaser. To do this, I first put the phaser on the nose of the cam without the timing chain installed. This allowed me to rotate the cam by hand to the new retarded position and line up the mark I made on the sprocket. Then I installed the chain and rotated the crank two revolutions.

The resulting impressions in the clay should represent the minimum clearance for both full advance & full retard. I only had to install the heads once - I just had to adjust the cam phasing to get both extremes. Pardon the dirty marks in the clay - the heads still need a bit more cleaning.


Next I used an Exacto knife to slowly and carefully slice through the clay. This gave me a nice cross section. Here is the intake:


And here is the exhaust:


After a search through my boxes, I couldn't find my trusty calipers (!) so I used a steel rule instead. Axial thickness seemed to agree with what I measured before. The advantage of this method over the indicator method is I can also observe radial valve clearance, which I think looks pretty good. The radial clearance was about 3/16" for both valves. Hopefully I can find my calipers and get a better measurement tonight - they seem to have walked off over the last week.

JaysinSpaceman 11-01-2012 11:15 PM

Looks perfect, put it together already.

I'm sort of going along with your wife. As much as I like seeing all your pictures, more time wrenching less time posting.

Love it.


P.S. In all my years of building H-D engines I never once saw a properly installed Spiro-loc come out. C-clips yes, Spiro-loc never, if it is in the grove it is there forever.

RogueFab 11-02-2012 03:30 PM

That is a cool way to check interference clearance on the valves.

I wouldn't be worried about the assembly lube on the flats of the rods. The amount of force they will get from the bolt torque will force out any fluid and give you solid contact. The tiny amount of fluid in the suface imperfections won't hurt anything.

TheBandit 11-05-2012 04:31 PM

Well I was going to get some stuff done this weekend, but I came out to the river Nile running through my garage, under the Nova and out into the street. My water heater sprung a leak at an inlet fitting. It had one of those flexible stainless braided hoses and it was shooting water from the crimp area. Thankfully the flood missed anything important, but it still took up most of my day between moving things around and replacing the pipes. As I dried stuff I couldn't help but think about all the people affected by the hurricane. I was looking at some of my best memories captured in photos and boxed up for storage, photos that certainly would have been lost in a real flood. My heart goes out to everyone suffering through the effects of that storm. Hope everyone there is doing okay.

Tomorrow I am dropping my heads off with Tod McKenzie at his shop (McKenzie's Racing) in Oxnard. I was going to clean and assemble them myself, but I'm paranoid about cleaning aluminum now and even if I wasn't I think it's worth a few bucks to have them hot tanked and blasted. After searching around with no luck for a rental/loaner spring compressor that could handle the dual springs, I've decided to also have him assemble the heads. That'll save time and get me going a little sooner. Total $80. Does that seem reasonable to clean & assemble heads?


Originally Posted by JaysinSpaceman (Post 123983)
I'm sort of going along with your wife. As much as I like seeing all your pictures, more time wrenching less time posting.

LOL. You guys are right. I need to get this thing done! I am now just uploading photos from home and posting during lunch instead. Hopefully that strategy will help.

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